Local free surfer, Matt Bromley dropped this awesome edit a few days ago of himself surfing some of the biggest and picturesque waves around the world. We decided to catch up with Matt and chat to him about his experiences during the filming of this edit. Enjoy:
Where and when did you shoot all the footage for your edit?
The footage was taken all over the world. From Hawaii to Tahiti to Australia to Indonesia. My “job” if you can call it that, entails chasing down the most intimidating and picturesque waves on the planet.
Some of the barrels you are seen surfing are huge. Where did you surf them?
The big barrels are from Pipeline, Hawaii and a mystical wave in Tahiti called Teahupoo. It kind of works like this; The bigger the barrels, the greater the risk and the more fulfilling the reward.
Which was your favourite location to surf in this edit?
Definitely Tahiti. The wave there, Teahupoo, is regarded as the most terrifying and intimidating wave in the world. This wave gives you a special connection with God and his creation. On a big day, you are on the verge of life and death, and you are totally at the mercy of mother nature. When it wants to kick you off, you get faced with tons of water driving you towards a sharp, coral reef. But when you make it, it’s the experience of a life time.
How would you rate some of SA’s surfing spots compared to famous international ones?
We are super blessed with waves in SA! Waves like Dungeons, Sunset Reef and Jeffrey’s Bay deliver similar quality surf to the most “gnarly” and perfect waves anywhere overseas.
What is the ultimate feeling when surfing a wave?
Taking off on a massive wave and turning up into a barrel that you can drive a bus through. Time slows down inside the tube…it’s something you can’t explain to someone who doesn’t surf. And then you fly out the barrel into the channel to your mates yelling and cheering you on. That’s probably as good as it gets.
For the non surfers. What is the feeling like when you are inside a barrel?
[Laughs] yeah as I said before, time slows down and the few seconds you’re inside feel like minutes. You can see every water droplet and movement of water. You’re entrapped in the core of nature, a spinning vortex of violence, yet you are perfectly safe. As Billabong said it, “ONLY A SURFER KNOWS THE FEELING”.
You take a few spills in this edit. Take us through one of you worst bails?
When you wipe out on a wave of consequence, you get what we call “Rag-Dolled”. It’s like being a little rag-doll with no control over your body. Your arms are getting pulled in every direction, your legs can sometimes go almost behind your head. You really are just at the mercy of the ocean. Then in-between that mess you’re worrying about hitting the reef and getting back to the surface to get another breath before the next wave comes over you.
“…my main career objective is not to obtain contest results but rather explore and find the most incredible, tubing waves on the planet and document the experience.”
What surfing trip are you planning next and will we see an edit from it?
I’m heading over to Durban and Jeffrey’s Bay for June/ July where I will be participating in a number of national and international competitions. Then in August, I’m planning a trip to either Tahiti, Fiji or Micronesia. I will always be aiming to document the experience, so whether photos or video, there will be something coming from them.
Where is the world would you most like to surf?
I have my eye on Fiji. It serves up arguably the best, most perfect barreling waves in the world and I’ve got it on my radar for a possible next overseas journey.
What type of surfer do you see yourself as?
I’m a Free-Surfer, which means my main career objective is not to obtain contest results but rather explore and find the most incredible, tubing waves on the planet and document the experience.
Who are your sponsors?
Billabong, Monster Energy, Nixon, VonZipper, Dakine, Kustom, FutureLife and Virgin Active.